How to Wash, Dry, and Store Cashmere: A Factory’s Honest Care Guide

Cashmere is a natural fiber. Treat it well and it lasts 10+ years. Treat it poorly and it pills, shrinks, or loses shape in 6 months. After 23 years of watching how customers care for their cashmere, here’s the honest guide.

The 3 ways to wash cashmere (ranked by safety)

1. Hand wash (safest) — Always works. Use cool water (30°C max) and a pH-neutral wool wash (we like Eucalan or Soak, no rinsing required). Submerge for 15-20 minutes. Gently press (don’t wring) the water out. Roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture. Lay flat to dry on a fresh towel, reshaping gently.

2. Machine wash (acceptable, with conditions) — Most modern washing machines have a “wool” or “delicates” cycle that mimics hand washing. Use:

• Cool water (cold setting, 30°C max)
• Wool-safe detergent (NOT regular detergent, NOT fabric softener)
• Mesh laundry bag (essential — prevents snagging and agitation damage)
• Lowest spin speed (or no spin)
• Wash similar colors together (camel + ivory are fine; white + dark = trouble)

NEVER use hot water, regular detergent, or high spin. Hot water + agitation = felted cashmere (irreversible shrinkage).

3. Dry cleaning (works but with caveats) — Most dry cleaners use perchloroethylene (perc) which doesn’t damage cashmere but isn’t great for the environment. Some “green” cleaners use CO2 or water-based methods. If you dry clean, request “gentle cycle” and “low heat”. Avoid dry cleaning more than 2-3 times per year — the solvents strip natural oils from the fiber over time.

Our honest recommendation: hand wash if you have 20 minutes, machine wash on wool cycle if you’re in a hurry, dry clean only for stubborn stains.

Drying cashmere (this is where most people ruin their sweaters)

THE BIGGEST MISTAKE: Hanging a wet cashmere sweater to dry. The water weight stretches the fiber, leaving the shoulders deformed and the body elongated — permanently.

Correct method:

1. After washing, gently press water out (don’t wring)
2. Roll in a clean dry towel, press to absorb (repeat with second dry towel if very wet)
3. Lay flat on a fresh dry towel, reshape to original dimensions
4. Keep away from direct sunlight and direct heat (radiators, hair dryers)
5. Flip after 8-12 hours; should be dry in 24-36 hours

Drying takes patience. Never put cashmere in a dryer (even on low heat). Even 10 minutes in a tumble dryer can cause irreversible shrinkage and felting.

Pilling: what causes it, how to fix it

Pilling (those tiny fiber balls on the surface) is not a quality defect — it’s a natural response to friction. New cashmere sweaters pill more in the first 3-4 wears as loose fibers come to the surface. After the initial pilling phase, good cashmere pills minimally for years.

Where pilling happens most:

• Underarm area (most friction from arm movement)
• Inner elbow (bending friction)
• Side torso (bag/strap friction)
• Cuffs (desk/friction contact)

How to remove pills safely:

• Cashmere comb (best tool) — fine-toothed comb specifically designed for knitwear. Lay the sweater flat, comb gently in one direction.
• Fabric shaver (also good) — electric de-piller like the Philips Fabric Shaver or Conair Fabric Defuzzer. Use on low setting, light pressure. Don’t go over the same spot repeatedly.
• Avoid: Regular razors (cuts the fiber), tape (pulls fibers), scissors (cuts too much).

How to prevent pilling long-term:

• Wash inside out (reduces surface friction)
• Don’t wear the same cashmere 2 days in a row (fiber needs 24 hours to recover)
• Store folded, not hung (hanging stretches shoulders)
• Use a cashmere wash (preserves natural oils)

A cashmere sweater that pills heavily in year 1 is a quality red flag. But pilling lightly in months 1-3, then stabilizing, is normal — even for Grade A.

Stain removal (specific stain types)

Oil-based stains (makeup, salad dressing, butter): Sprinkle cornstarch or baby powder on the stain immediately. Let sit 30 minutes to absorb. Then hand wash with wool detergent. Repeat if needed. Do NOT use hot water first — sets the stain.

Water-based stains (coffee, wine, juice): Blot (don’t rub) with cold water from the inside of the fabric. Apply a tiny amount of wool detergent, work in gently. Rinse. Repeat if needed.

Deodorant marks: Mix white vinegar and water 50/50. Dab on the mark, let sit 10 minutes, then wash normally.

Moth holes: Prevention is everything — see storage below. If you find a hole, take it to a tailor for repair. A skilled tailor can reweave small holes invisibly.

Storage (off-season + daily)

Daily storage: Fold, don’t hang. Hanging stretches shoulders permanently. Use a shelf or drawer with room for the sweater to “breathe” — don’t cram it in.

Off-season storage (3+ months not worn):

1. Wash before storing (body oils and food residue attract moths)
2. Completely dry (moisture + closed storage = mildew)
3. Use cedar blocks, lavender sachets, or moth balls (naphthalene) — DO NOT use plastic garment bags for long-term storage; cashmere needs to breathe
4. Store in a cotton storage bag (not plastic) in a cool, dry place
5. Check every 2-3 months for moth activity

Moth prevention is critical. Clothes moths (Tineola bisselliella) lay eggs in natural fibers — including cashmere. A single moth can lay 100+ eggs, and the larvae eat cashmere fiber. If you see one moth, check ALL your cashmere immediately.

What we tell our B2B customers to include with each sale

If you’re a private label cashmere brand, the care guide is the single most important insert to include with each garment. It directly determines:

• Customer satisfaction (pilling complaints drop 80% when customers understand the first-3-wear pilling phase)
• Repeat purchase rate (customers who know how to care for cashmere buy again 2-3x more often)
• Returns (proper care prevents “this cashmere is ruined” returns)

Most brands skip the care insert. The ones that include it build lifetime customers.

When to retire a cashmere sweater

With proper care, a Grade A cashmere sweater should last 8-15 years. Signs it’s time to retire:

• Holes that can’t be invisibly repaired (large, in visible spots)
• Permanent felting (the fiber has matted together — usually from a hot wash incident)
• Major pilling that doesn’t respond to combing (usually means the fiber is wearing through)

Most “cashmere ruined” stories involve one of three things: hot water wash, tumble dryer, or stored with body oils attracting moths. Avoid those three and your cashmere will outlive most of your wardrobe.

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Want to download this guide as a printable PDF for your customers? Request the printable care insert — we’ll send it branded with your logo for free.

Frequently asked questions about washing and caring for cashmere

Retail customers, brand owners, and care-instruction writers ask the same questions about keeping cashmere garments in good condition. These quick answers cover the most common care mistakes and the recovery actions for each. To request care-instruction cards for your private-label cashmere line, see our customization options.

Can I machine-wash cashmere?

It depends on the cashmere garment and the washing machine. Modern cashmere garments with machine-knit construction (12gg+, 2-ply worsted) can typically be machine-washed on a delicate/wool cycle at 30°C (86°F) with a pH-neutral wool detergent, in a mesh laundry bag, with the spin cycle disabled or set to 400 RPM max. Hand-knit or loosely-knitted cashmere (7gg chunky, single-ply) should be hand-washed only. The safest approach for any cashmere garment: hand-wash in cool water (30°C max) with a wool detergent, gently press (do not wring), and lay flat to dry on a clean towel. Never put cashmere in a hot wash or hot dryer — heat causes the fiber to shrink irreversibly, and agitation causes pilling.

How do I remove pilling from a cashmere sweater?

Cashmere pilling is normal — it appears under the arms, on the sides, and where the garment rubs against itself or outerwear. To remove pilling safely: use a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver (electric sweater shaver) on a flat, dry garment. Hold the fabric taut and run the comb or shaver gently over the pilled area; do not press hard. Avoid using regular razors ( can cut the fiber) and avoid pulling pills off by hand (distorts the knit structure). Pilling typically subsides after 3–5 wear cycles as loose fiber ends work their way out of the yarn structure. Premium cashmere (14.0–15.5μm, 36+mm staple length) pills significantly less than entry-grade cashmere (16.5–19.0μm, 24–30mm staple length).

How should I store cashmere during summer?

Cashmere garments should be stored during the off-season as follows: clean the garment thoroughly before storing (body oils and food residue attract moths), fold (do not hang — hanging distorts shoulder shape), wrap in acid-free tissue paper or store in a breathable cotton storage bag, place in a cool, dry location (15–22°C, 45–55% humidity), and add a natural moth repellent (cedar blocks, lavender sachets, or rosemary). Avoid: plastic bags (trap moisture and cause yellowing), cardboard boxes (acidic, weakens fiber over time), and mothballs (chemical residue damages fiber). Inspect stored cashmere monthly — moth damage usually appears as small holes in concealed areas (under collars, inside folds). For long-term storage (more than 6 months), consider professional cleaning and storage at a specialist.

Why does cashmere get holes even with proper care?

Cashmere develops small holes primarily from moth larvae (the most common cause), fabric damage from friction (seat belt, rough table edges, backpack straps), or fiber degradation from improper cleaning (chlorine bleach, hot water, harsh detergents). Moth larvae prefer natural fibers (cashmere, wool, silk) and feed on body oil residue; clean garments in breathable storage are less attractive to moths. To prevent holes: wash or dry-clean before storage, use moth repellents, rotate garments in your wardrobe (moths prefer undisturbed items), and trim any loose threads immediately (pulled threads become holes). Small holes can be invisibly mended by a specialist tailor or alteration service; do not attempt home repair with sewing — cashmere knit structure is complex and home repairs usually make holes worse.

Can I dry-clean cashmere?

Yes — dry-cleaning is safe for cashmere garments and is often the recommended care method for tailored cashmere (blazers, structured knitwear, lined garments). Use a dry cleaner experienced with cashmere and request “clean fresh solvent only, no perc” if possible. Dry-cleaning after every 4–5 wears is reasonable for frequently-worn cashmere blazers and coats; less frequent dry-cleaning is fine for casual cashmere pullovers. Avoid “wet cleaning” at the dry cleaner unless they specifically handle cashmere — some wet-cleaning processes use agitation that causes shrinkage. Always check the care label first: some hand-knit cashmere is labeled “dry clean only,” while machine-knit cashmere can typically be hand-washed at home with similar results at lower cost.

What is the best way to de-wrinkle cashmere?

To de-wrinkle cashmere safely: steam is the preferred method — hang the garment in a steamy bathroom for 10–15 minutes, or use a handheld steamer held 10+ cm from the fabric (do not press the steamer directly onto the cashmere). Avoid: ironing directly on cashmere (heat and pressure crush the fiber); ironing on high heat; tumble drying. For deeper wrinkles, a low-temperature iron with a pressing cloth (cotton or linen) between the iron and the cashmere works — set iron to “wool” or 110°C max, press gently, do not slide the iron. After de-wrinkling, lay the garment flat to cool and dry before hanging or wearing. If the cashmere develops a permanent crease (after long-term improper folding), wash and lay flat to reshape; deep-set creases may require professional pressing.