Cashmere Grades
Explained
A, B, C, baby, pashmina — what the grades actually mean and how to choose the right quality for your brand.
Why Cashmere Quality Varies So Much
Two cashmere sweaters can both say "100% cashmere" and feel completely different. One might pill after two wears; the other lasts a decade. The difference comes down to 3 measurable factors: fiber fineness (micron), fiber length, and down fiber content. The cashmere industry uses a rough grading system (A/B/C) to capture these, but the grades are not standardized — one supplier's "Grade A" might be another's "Grade B".
Below is the framework we use internally, based on 23 years of grading fiber from Ordos and Mongolian goats.
The 3 Grading Factors
1. Fiber Fineness (Micron)
Measured in micrometers (μm). Lower = softer. The micron count is the diameter of individual fibers. Human hair is 50-100μm. Premium cashmere is 14-16μm.
Industry benchmark: 14.5-15.5μm = premium · 15.5-16.5μm = mid-market · 16.5-19μm = entry-level · 19μm+ = often blended with wool.
2. Fiber Length
Longer fibers pill less and last longer. Measured in millimeters. Combed top is 28-42mm. Shorter fiber (under 28mm) is used for woolen spinning or blends.
Industry benchmark: 36-42mm = premium · 30-36mm = mid-market · under 30mm = entry-level or noil.
3. Down Fiber Content
"Down" is the soft undercoat fiber. "Guard hair" is the coarser outer fiber. Higher down content = softer feel, less scratchiness. Cashmere is dehaired to remove guard hair.
Industry benchmark: Premium dehaired cashmere has 99%+ down content, under 1% guard hair.
Cashmere Grades A, B, C — Industry Convention
No global standard exists for cashmere grading. The following is the most common convention used in Chinese and Mongolian processing facilities.
| Grade | Micron (μm) | Length (mm) | Typical Use | Price (per kg, raw) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A (Premium) | 14.0-15.5 | 36-42 | Luxury knitwear, premium scarves | USD 80-120 |
| B (Mid-market) | 15.5-16.5 | 30-36 | Mid-range sweaters, blends | USD 50-80 |
| C (Entry) | 16.5-19.0 | 26-30 | Entry sweaters, accessories, blends | USD 30-50 |
Prices reflect 2025-2026 raw dehaired cashmere market. Bulk orders 100kg+ at FOB Inner Mongolia.
Special Cashmere Varieties
Baby Cashmere (Baby Fiber)
Harvested from the underdown of goat kids (6-12 months old). The fibers are naturally finer (12.5-13.5μm) and softer than adult cashmere, but also shorter (28-32mm) and more delicate.
Use: Ultra-luxury scarves, premium knitwear. Price: 2-3x adult Grade A cashmere. Note: Ethical concerns: harvesting from kids requires careful herder practices. Some buyers avoid baby cashmere on animal-welfare grounds.
Pashmina
Strictly speaking, "pashmina" is a type of cashmere from the Changthangi goat in Kashmir (India/Pakistan), with very fine fiber (12-15μm). However, the term is now widely misused as a marketing label for any fine cashmere shawl, regardless of origin.
Reality check: Most "pashmina" products sold today are made from Chinese or Mongolian cashmere, not Changthangi. The legal name is "cashmere" in most jurisdictions; "pashmina" is a marketing term without protected designation.
White vs. Brown vs. Gray Cashmere
Most cashmere goats produce white, brown, or gray fiber. White cashmere is the most valuable because it can be dyed to any color without bleaching. Brown and gray are usually used in natural or limited colorways.
Price impact: White cashmere is 10-15% more expensive than brown/gray at the same grade level.
How to Choose the Right Grade for Your Brand
Most new B2B buyers default to "Grade A" because they think it's the safest choice. It's not — premium grade is also the most expensive and the most delicate to knit (requires slower machine speeds, more skilled operators). Here's how to match grade to your product:
Luxury scarf or premium sweater at USD 200+ retail?
→ Grade A (14-15.5μm, 36mm+). The hand feel justifies the price premium.
Mid-market DTC brand (USD 80-200 retail)?
→ Grade B (15.5-16.5μm, 30-36mm). Best balance of quality and price.
Entry-level fashion brand or accessories?
→ Grade C (16.5-19μm) or cashmere blend (70% cashmere / 30% wool). Cost-efficient without sacrificing the "cashmere" claim.
Hand-knitting yarn brand?
→ Grade A or B, depending on your price point. Hand-knitters feel the difference.
Need Help Choosing the Right Cashmere Grade?
Send us your product concept (target retail price, gauge, fiber preference) and we'll recommend the optimal grade + format for your brand.
Get Grade Recommendations →Cashmere Grades FAQ
What is the difference between Grade A, B, and C cashmere?
Grade A is premium (14-15.5μm fiber fineness, 36-42mm length, 99%+ down content). Grade B is mid-market (15.5-16.5μm, 30-36mm). Grade C is entry-level (16.5-19μm, under 30mm). Lower micron = softer feel. Longer fiber = less pilling.
Is baby cashmere really from baby goats?
No — baby cashmere is fiber harvested from the undercoat of adult cashmere goats’ first combing (typically the softest fiber they produce in their lifetime, usually 13-14.5µm). True baby goats are not used commercially; their fiber yield is too low. The term refers to grade, not age.
What is the difference between cashmere and pashmina?
Technically all pashmina is cashmere (the word is from Persian, meaning "soft gold"). Historically pashmina referred to fiber from Kashmir-region goats with very fine micron (under-14µm) woven into shawls. Today the terms are largely interchangeable in B2B trade, though "pashmina" carries a marketing premium.
What micron count should I look for in a quality cashmere sweater?
For premium retail (USD 200+), look for 14-15.5µm and 36mm+ fiber length. For mid-market DTC (USD 80-200), 15.5-16.5µm and 30-36mm is the standard. Anything over 19µm is likely blended with wool.
How do I avoid pilling on a cashmere garment?
Pilling is caused by short fibers (under 28mm) working loose. Choose Grade A or B (longer fibers), wash by hand in cool water with cashmere shampoo, reshape and dry flat, and avoid wearing the same piece two days in a row (fiber recovers). Premium cashmere pills much less than entry-level even with the same care.
Is white cashmere better than brown or gray?
White cashmere is the most valuable because it can be dyed to any color without bleaching, which damages fibers. Brown and gray cashmere is equally fine but limited to natural or muted colorways. Price difference at the same grade: 10-15% premium for white.
